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Climb safely

28.10.2019

Climbing stands for freedom, adventure and the incomparable feeling of experiencing nature up close. But where thrills and adrenaline beckon, attention is also required. Safety plays a crucial role when climbing - whether on via ferrata, in the gym or on alpine rock. In this blog, we'll show you what to look out for, how to prepare properly and what equipment is essential for a safe climbing experience. This way, your next adventure will not only be exciting, but also completely safe.

Kletterer am Gipfel des Dachsteins | © Peter Burgstaller
Kletterer genießen den Ausblick am Dachstein | © Peter Burgstaller

For your safety

  1. Via ferrata is a challenging sport in the midst of beautiful, rugged nature! Please observe a few rules for your safety:
  2. Via ferrata tours are strenuous and require stamina, a head for heights and surefootedness.
  3. Always use a via ferrata set and a helmet and attach them to the safety rope. Many mountain rescue missions are due to carelessness and bad weather.
  4. Many tours take a whole day with ascent and descent. Therefore, study the weather forecast carefully and always plan a time buffer. Adapt your equipment and provisions to the tour and the weather.
  5. Always behave considerately. Respect other climbers and inform them of any dangers.
  6. In addition to your experiences, please also take your waste back down to the valley and treat nature with care.

Alpine emergency call

  • Mountain rescue 140
  • European emergency call 112

Difficulty rating for via ferratas (Schall scale)

The assessment of the difficulty of a via ferrata is subject to subjective factors and can therefore only be indicative. An attempt has been made to reconcile the problem of the subjectivity of difficulty ratings with a rating system.

To date, there is no standardized international or European difficulty rating system for via ferratas. The "Schall scale" developed by Kurt Schall in the mid-1980s (from A to F including intermediate levels) and the "German via ferrata scale" (K1 to K6 according to Eugen Hüsler, or KS1 to KS6 according to Paul Werner) have become widespread and proven themselves in German-speaking countries in recent years.

The following definitions were taken from the current "Klettersteig-Atlas Österreich" (www.schall-verlag.at).

A = Light (blue)

Simple, secured climbs. Shallow (longer) or vertical (short) ladders, handrails and iron clamps, mostly in not very steep terrain. Individual sections may be exposed, but are easy to walk on (e.g. rock ledges, small rope bridges). The terrain is easy to walk on even without belays (exception: ladders over small wall steps) and has good footholds and handholds. In general, no via ferrata equipment is required for sure-footed mountain hikers with a head for heights. Usually very suitable for children/young people or beginners, but a via ferrata set is recommended!

Klettern am Dachstein | © Peter Burgstaller

B = Moderately difficult (blue-red)

Already somewhat steeper rocky terrain with some small, exposed passages. Longer vertical ladders, iron clamps, stepping pins or chains. Some passages can already be strenuous and somewhat energy-sapping. Even experienced mountaineers already use basic via ferrata equipment here. For beginners and children/young people, a via ferrata set is essential and a short safety rope is also recommended on longer climbs.

Klettern am Dachstein | © Christoph Huber

C = Difficult (red)

Steep to very steep rocky terrain. Mostly small-step passages that are almost always exposed. Vertical to slightly overhanging ladders, iron clamps and stepping pins, which can sometimes be further apart (possibly problematic for smaller people and children). Often vertical sections secured only with a steel cable, single or double rope bridges, suspension bridges. Sometimes very strenuous. Longer ascents at this level of difficulty already count as major via ferrata undertakings. Inexperienced climbers and children/young people are strongly recommended to be belayed by an experienced via ferrata climber (partner). A via ferrata set is a matter of course.

Im Plattenpfeiler am Hilde Klettersteig - Stoderzinken | © Manfred Lindtner

D = Very difficult (red-black)

Vertical, often overhanging rocky terrain. Iron clamps and footholds are often far apart. Mostly very exposed and steep rock, which is often only secured with a steel cable. Already high demands on climbing technique (small footholds, friction plates) and psyche ("tests of courage"). Longer, vertical to overhanging passages, requiring a good degree of arm strength and good overall physical fitness. Climbing experience is an advantage (climbing technique, natural grips and footholds for locomotion, economical movement, etc.). A via ferrata set is also obligatory for very experienced via ferrata climbers (possibly even additional climbing shoes with treadless soles). No longer suitable for beginners, children and inexperienced climbers.

Hias-Klettersteig D-Stelle "steile Kante" | © Gerald Grünwald

E = Extremely difficult (black)

Mostly overhanging rocky terrain. Extreme demands on arm strength (strength endurance and maximum strength), climbing technique, skill, courage and morale! Only for experienced via ferrata professionals! An optimum level of training is required for longer climbs of this difficulty! In addition to the via ferrata set, a short sling (approx. 40 cm) with carabiner (for arm support and fixation or for clipping the belay) is highly recommended. Otherwise, all the other details to a greater extent as described under "D".

Blick auf zwei Kletterer am Dachstein | © Peter Burgstaller
Author

Schladming Dachstein